You need Onion Butter in your repertoire--period. And put your fear of flipping aside: the skin and scales of the drum fillets (you can also use snapper or wild bass) serve as a handy cooking vessel for tender, buttery fish.

Serves 4

2 one-pound redfish or black drum fillets, skin and scales left on

Salt and pepper

Fishmonger’s Spice to taste

2 large onions, sliced thinly

12 ounces butter

2 bay leaves

Cut a few slashes in the redfish fillets, then season with salt and pepper and set aside in the refrigerator. In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions, bay and a pinch of salt. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until browned and very soft, about 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Chill the onion and butter mixture until it is spreadable, about 30 more minutes in the refrigerator.

Start a hot charcoal or wood fire, or preheat a gas grill to high. Divide the onion butter between the two fillets and spread it evenly over the fillet sides. Place the fillets, skin and scale side down, over the hot fire. Cook until the fillets are very tender at their thickest parts, about 10-15 minutes, closing the lid of the grill (or tent the fish fillets with a big metal bowl or pan) to help cook the top. Serve with wedges of lemon, lime or orange.